Isla Waterman, Chile

Crossing through the open seas are difficult. This morning we left Isla Waterman and tried to reach Isla Caroline through the open ocean waters. Huge swells rocked the boat side to side and back and forth. I watched the pendulum of the gauge that measures the angle of boat pitch swing past 40 degrees! Eventually we had to turn back and instead tried to reach the ocean side of Isla Caroline by first crossing through the narrow channel that ran behind it. Along the way we looked for any signs of southern rockhopper penguins.





Some of the smaller islands surrounding the back of Isla Caroline had similar characteristics to Isla Terhalten and Sesambre--tall, jagged cliffs topped with dense tussock grass, and the open ocean access rockhoppers seem to prefer. As the failing weather would not allow any landings on these islands for further investigation, the best we could do was scan the islands and water with binoculars, but no rockhoppers were seen. Hugo found a small cove for the Chonos to anchor in for the night. Tomorrow we will have one last chance to reach and explore the ocean-facing side of Isla Caroline.

-Caitlin

Isla Terhalten


Today is our last day at Isla Terhalten. Watching from the boat I saw a group of Magellanic penguins on the shoreline that were very hesitant to get started with their early morning fishing trip. What you can't see in this video is the reason for their delay, the group of southern sea lions waiting in the water below.






Our captian, Hugo, brought the Chonos in for close drive by of the entire island for one last look before we head back towards the Beagle Channel. In this video, you can see an imperial cormorant breeding colony on the exposed slope, as well as many southern sea lions lounging on the rocky cliffs. It amazes me that an animal so large and ungainly on land can climb such steep cliffs! Take a look!

This morning we left our sheltered cove on Isla Lennox to once again head out into the open waters and Isla Terhalten. Today the seas are much calmer and I hope to have another shot at getting on to the island. As we approached the island you could see shiny white dots that were actually the bellies of rockhopper penguins filing down the rocky cliffs, headed out to sea to forage for fish. As the boat got closer some of the penguins farther up on the rocks stopped abruptly and stared out at the boat, while others turned and scrambled back up into the grasses on the edge of the cliff. The small group that had already made it down to the water porpoised through the waves off the starboard side of the Chonos and out to sea.



Before I knew it I was wearing a life jacket and sitting in the small zodiac headed straight for the rocky cliffs of the island. When the tiny inflatable boat ran up near a low rock face Manuel effortlessly jumped onto the island and made it look easy. Now it was my turn. I climbed to the front of the zodiac, over the rope webbing protecting the boat from the sharp rocks and barnacles, and tried to scramble up onto the island. Let’s just say I was not as graceful.

My feet and hands could not get a hold on the very slippery, algae and barnacle covered rocks but luckily Manuel was able to grab my life jacket and help me to shore. Once standing upright I took off my life jacket and passed it back to the zodiac, noticing over my right shoulder that an enormous male southern sea lion was watching us from the rocks about 20 feet away. Before I could get my camera out of my pocket he slipped into the water to investigate the second launch arriving to his island. His massive head bobbed in the waves about 10 feet from the zodiac. Two female sea lions went in after him and poked their much smaller heads out of the water on either side of his.

He watched the zodiac intently as the rest of the team made their way onto the island and then lost interest and disappeared under the waves as the small zodiac headed back to the Chonos. Now that the entire team was finally on Isla Terhalten, we made the climb up into the largest of the three colonies located on the island. At the top of the cliff where the steep rocks ended and the tussock grass began, were the small group of rockhoppers that had stopped in their tracks when they first saw our boat.



They watched us closely, unsure of what to make of us. Southern rockhopper penguins in Chile breed in such remote and harsh locations such as Isla Terhalten that most have never encountered humans. Once at the base if the colony, our first matter of business is to measure out areas called plots, in order to get accurate counts of nests and eggs. Four ropes tied together to make a large rectangle designate the area in which to count, although attaching the ropes to small trees or dense clumps of tussock grass around the colony is much easier said then done.

This colony is situated on either side of a small, muddy creek bed. The mud is so thick in some areas that if you stand still for too long your boots are sucked in to the mud past your ankles. The colony is also on a hillside and climbing up the slippery rocks and fallen trees can be a recipe for a face full of mud and guano. Most importantly, you have to be very careful about where you step as to not disturb any nests or eggs. The penguins, not sure if we meant them harm, abandoned their nests and ran into the surrounding tussock grass as we entered the colony.



Luckily, the striated caracaras watching from the nearby bushes were also too afraid of us to come into the colony and steal the now unguarded eggs.

Once the ropes were in place we moved quickly through the colony counting nests and eggs and after a few minutes the rockhoppers cautiously returned to their nests. By counting the number of nests with eggs in them we can get a much more accurate idea of the total number of birds in each plot. Incubating eggs requires both parents as they have to be able to switch of between sitting on the eggs and foraging for fish. Pairs that lose their mate during the breeding season will eventually be forced to abandon their eggs to hunt for fish. Unguarded eggs are quickly taken by predatory birds, such as caracaras, that also live on these islands.

By counting nests we can assume that any nest with eggs must have two penguins. Our first plot had 141 successful nests, which means that there are probably close to 282 southern rockhopper penguins just in that 20m X 10m area. As we continued up through the colony we did 3 more plots, each with at least 100 successful nests. Around 85 percent of the nests that we counted had two eggs in them and I only saw a handful of abandoned nest sites in the 4 plot areas.

It seems that the remote location and dense vegetation of Isla Terhalten is helping to protect these penguins from pressures such as habitat encroachment and introduced predators. Unfortunately even the harshest of locations cannot protect them from the larger problems of over fishing and climate change that are pushing many species of penguins to the brink of extinction. Leaving the colony, we radioed to the Chonos to establish a new pick up location and made our way back down to the cliffs. Along the way we passed a pair of Magellanic penguins in their burrow, and an ashy headed goose guarding his nest site from on looking striated caracaras.

To get back down to the boat we had to descend down the vertical cliffs and again make the jump into the zodiac. On the left side of this photo you can see two of the Feather Link team members, Roger and Len, making their way down and get a good idea of the height of these cliffs.



Once safely back on the Chonos we hosed the mud off of our clothes and boots and went below for dinner. It's hard to express the exhilarating feeling of being on such a wild and untouched island. This experience is something I will never forget for the rest of my life.

-Caitlin

Isla Terhalten and Sesambre

This morning we got an early start out of Puerto Williams, heading through the eastern end of the Beagle Channel. The flat calm waters this morning are a huge change from the white out and windy conditions of yesterday, and will hopefully allow us to reach Isla Terhaltenshortly after lunch. This clear, perfect morning was great for bird watching and we saw large numbers of black browed albatrosses, juvenile giant petrels, South American terns and southern fulmars.




While the crew lowered the small zodiac into the water, those of us going ashore changed into our rubber boots and waterproof gear. A nervous excitement came over me as I watched the first group go out in the zodiac. It was at least 20 minutes before they located an area to attempt a landing. By the way, to call it a "landing" is a bit misleading since it is really more like jumping ship than landing the zodiac on a nice sandy beach. When the zodiac pulls up to the rocky shoreline you must literally jump from the bow of the boat onto the slippery rocks. For this reason, finding the best possible landing site is key as any mistakes can end in broken bones, and we are miles from any hospital. Because the wind had picked up when we arrived, this landing was extremely difficult and once the first launch was ashore the decision was made to cancel any additional landing attempts. The first team of David, Manuel and Alejandro will have to collect the blood and feather samples alone. These samples will be analyzed in a lab once we have returned home and will help to check the overall health of the colony. Unfortunately for me I will have to wait another day to get my chance in the colony. Luckily, it was a clear, sunny day despite the wind and I was able to spend the rest of the afternoon watching the birds flying around the island and the southern sea lions sunbathing on the rocky shoreline.

The Northern branch of the Beagle Channel

Just when you think you've seen some of the most incredible scenery in the world, southern Chile continues to impress. About mid way into the northern branch of the Beagle Channel the water color changes from a deep, colbalt blue to pale, misty grey. I was told that this is due to the change from a rocky to sandy sediment on the bottom of the channel.